HERMISTON -Traffic roars past on Highway 395 in Hermiston. From a car, the businesses alongside blur into a streak of images. But if you know where to look you’ll find some of the best eating spots in town.

“When you see the real Mexicans eating here, you know it’s gotta be good,” said Terry Wanous, a lineman from Pacific Power.

He was in the line at La Princessa tacos in the parking lot of Super-1 foods. Wanous waited for his pork burrito along with several other customers. Among them was East Oregonian Hermiston bureau photographer E.J. Harris, who took on the task of checking out this lunchtime attraction in Hermiston.

One man. One lunch hour. Four taco stands. This is his story.

To keep the unofficial Taco Taste Test of 2005 simple, Harris chose to stick to two tacos apiece per stand. Taco stands offer more than this humble meal including tortas (a type of sandwich), burritos and more.

“This is the watershed,” Harris said, of the La Princessa stand. “Everything else from here on out will be compared to this.”

Harris sampled chicken and carne asada (grilled steak) tacos before moving on. The taco stand version of a taco was served as traditional Mexican fare. That means two small soft corn tortillas with ingredients piled in the center.

Aromas wafted forth from Pino’s Tacos, which was set up in the parking lot next to Honda Cycletown. As at the other stands, pleasure could be had for a mere dollar per taco.

“It tastes like heaven,” Harris said. “The meat has a lot of flavor.” Harris found the taco shell held up better at Pino’s. He credited this to its being lightly fried.

Although the stands varied somewhat, most tacos served contained meat, lettuce or cabbage, cilantro, onion, radish and lime. The meat is either fried or stewed and cooks add salt and garlic when preparing it. The outer tortilla acts as a napkin of sorts, keeping the meat’s juices from dripping or soaking through. Or the salsa.

“You can just give me the whole bottle,” said Tim Miears, of Hermiston, who gestured at the bottle of green salsa.

Miears was at Nelly’s Tacos in the Shell station parking lot. Fellow Campbell Motors car salesman Corey McLeod walked up to join him. The two men said they eat tacos most every workday and discuss where to try next.

Green salsa is generally made with tomatillos, a type of green tomato and jalapeno peppers while red salsa is made with red tomatoes and dried chile peppers that can vary from serrano to chipotle. Generally green salsa is milder while red salsa is spicier.

The taco stands reviewed in this article offered both of these types of salsas although not pico de gallo – a fresh chopped salsa, uncooked and not blended, with lime juice added. Cooks said pico de gallo is more commonly offered during summer months when fresh produce is cheaper.

Jon Reuter sticks to one taco stand – Tacos Paricutin – which is set up in the parking lot at The Cottage.

“I work on the farm but I come into town for the tacos,” he said. “I am a connoisseur and find this (stand) to be the most consistent.”

Harris found the steak tacos at Tacos Paricutin to his liking.

“It’s that little charring that adds flavor,” he said through a wad bulging in his cheek.

“To me, I try to serve the way people like,” said Nelly Sanchez, owner and cook at Nelly’s Tacos.

She said the different stands have their meat drier or juicier. Her experience of cooking tacos in Las Vegas and Hermiston is that people prefer the meat juicier. Customers could choose from among several meats at the stands besides steak including cabeza (brains), adobo (pork), pollo (chicken) and others.

“Tacos de lengua,” said customers Jose Garay and Manuel Cervantes, who were seated at La Princessa, of their lunchtime choice.

Harris said “no, thanks,” to trying the tongue variety.

How did Harris’s stomach fare with eight tacos at four stands within one hour ?

“It’s kind of tight,” he said.

This taco taste test is not recommended for all individuals. Results may vary. Since the stands are mobile and this test was conducted in early April their locations may have changed.

E.J.’s TACO TASTE TEST:

These ratings are based on one person’s judgment and are not meant to be the final word on any of these four taco stands.

E.J.’s rating system: 1 chile = good; 5 chiles = exceptional.

La Princessa at A-1 Foods – 2 chiles

Nelly’s at Shell station – 3 chiles

Pino’s “Real” Tacos at Honda Motorsports – 4 chiles

Paricutin’s “Tacos y Tortas” at The Cottage 4.5 chiles