Toronto is perhaps the most under-appreciated city in North America. In the popular consciousness it is best known for its dearly departed party animal mayor Rob Ford, but aside from that Toronto proves to be a cosmopolitan city, on par with New York or Chicago in terms of its cultural, culinary and tourist attractions.

Unfortunately it also rivals those cities for how expensive it can be to visit, even in spite of the U.S. dollar’s advantage over the Canadian dollar. With a few thrifty modifications to one’s itinerary, a trip to Toronto can be an semi-affordable getaway, leaving a little extra cash for when you care to splurge.

First of all, when you arrive at Pearson Airport (your most likely point of entry), opt for taking the Union-Pearson Express, a direct light rail line to downtown’s Union Station, in lieu of a taxi. Toronto is notorious for its traffic jams and the UP Express will offer transport to downtown faster and far cheaper than a taxi ride. As a bonus upon arriving downtown, Union Station hosts a food market during the summer months comprised of booths featuring scaled-down menus from award-winning restaurants (i.e. David Chang’s Momofuku).

There are a few lodging options close to downtown and equidistant to neighborhoods that offer a great opportunity to people watch (Kensington Market and Queen Street). The most interesting is the Super 8 motel located in the top floor of Chinatown Centre. The Super 8 itself is as unremarkable as a chain motel could be, save for the fact that it sits on the top floor of a quirky mall that has seen better days — many lights are burnt out and escalators not functioning.

In spite of the needed upgrades Chinatown Centre is rather quaint, featuring an array of boutiques hawking bootleg DVDs and knockoff designer clothing. The food court, full of stalls selling Chinese barbecue and fresh fruit juices (the quality far superior to mall’s upkeep) faces an outdoor plaza where old men congregate to play Go.

The most iconic landmark to visit in Toronto is the CN Tower, the tallest structure in the western hemisphere. But of course one needs to shell out a pretty penny for the 147-story elevator ride and wait a couple hours to set foot inside (hint, show up as soon as it opens to avoid the line). However, the equally iconic Toronto City Hall costs nothing and offers just as many photo ops to share on your Facebook account.

Guitar enthusiasts should check Shy Boy and Tex Repair Company on Queen Street. Blink and you’ll miss the nondescript door wedged between a spa and yarn retailer that leads up to a second story office suite crammed with restored vintage guitars and amplifiers. Shy Boy and Tex (the nicknames of the proprietors) specialize in the restoration of Fender guitars, though they have a few oddball models from limited production runs. Tex also has a side business building his own line of guitar amps, counting Jeff Tweedy of Wilco as one of his more high-profile clients. Even if you don’t plan on taking a guitar home, Shyboy and Tex are kind enough to let you fondle their handiwork.

Perhaps the most fantastic attraction for the budget-conscious traveler is the Harbourfront Centre. Once a derelict shipping dock on the shore of Lake Ontario, the Harbourfront has been transformed into a sprawling public park that houses a free contemporary art museum (The Power Plant, which, as its name implies, is a repurposed decommissioned power plant), a food court featuring international vendors, green spaces, and a 1,300-seat outdoor concert venue. Every weekend during the summer sees the staging of a different free festival that imports world class performers.

No trip to Canada is complete without a serving of poutine, the country’s de facto signature dish. A humble mound of french fries topped with brown gravy and cheese curds, poutine tends to be best consumed after a night of bar hopping and purchased from a street vendor. There is no need to hit up a fancy restaurant for such a simple meal.

Before heading back home be sure to swing back to the Chinatown Centre to pick up the most affordable souvenirs for your family and friends. The Canada Store is stuffed to the gills with apparel emblazoned with maple leaves, carry-on luggage-sized bottles of maple syrup, and all manner of kitschy magnets, fittingly all manufactured in China.

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J.D. Kindle is a Pendleton musician, the executive director of the Oregon East Symphony and the entertainment columnist for the East Oregonian. Contact him at jamesdeankindle@gmail.com