Maui County, Hawaii. Two weeks exploring the wonders of the islands of Molokai, Lanai and Maui left me hungering for more. In fact, if I’d been there any longer, I would have gotten a tattoo and a parrot. Each island of the county speaks with its own personality. And each managed to seduce me.

Molokai, known as the ‘Friendly Island,’ is home to the second-biggest cattle ranch in the islands and was a longtime haven for lepers before the disease was treatable. It preserves the ambiance of old-traditional Hawaii, perhaps a Hawaii of 50 years ago. With only 7,000 people on the whole isle, a couple days here and you feel like part of the family: calling everyone by first name, knowing who’s cousin to who and thoroughly enjoying the hospitality.

There are several motel/apartment complexes on the island, but I was fortunate to stay at The Molokai Ranch Lodge. The buildings are only two stories high – nothing taller than a coconut tree is allowed on the isle of Molokai – but the views overlooking the garden, pool and beyond to the surrounding Pacific Ocean are awesome. No postcard captures these sunsets. The rooms have “country decor,” (upscale country, for sure) and the dining room is only a short walk away from the lodge.

Friday and Saturday nights, the lodge rocks with music provided by locals. Bo Perez – Molokai’s answer to Tony Bennett – and his group put on a show that easily could be a Las Vegas lounge show.

Sunday mornings, Uncle Jimmy, the fifth-generation paniolo (cowboy) on the ranch, holds a worship hour in the stable area. With the barn swept clean, a white sheet covering the table where he preaches and with a saddle on either side, Uncle Jimmy dispenses his word of the day. He always stresses, “Keep it simple,” a message worth remembering. Other days he can be found running the Molokai Cowboy Connection on the ranch, offering guided horse tours, rodeos, riding fundamentals and hauling. The Molokai Rodeo, which he founded, takes place in October and has turned into a grand festival.

The ranch also offers tentalows in its Beach Village. The tents are almost like camping out, but with a few amenities to assure comfort. Tentalows are great for family vacations or for those who want to “rough it with style.” Visitors should spend time with Anakala Pilipo Solatorio, Molokai’s storyteller who can be found on the grounds. His mission is to preserve the history of the island and its natives. The garden he has created there showcases many of the indigenous plants.

Molokai is in the midst of a controversy right now; those for and against development are locked in debate. Many of the locals don’t want their island to ever change, but others say they must progress if they are going to continue to exist. Right now, the white sand beaches and the golf courses are almost empty and there is no traffic problem. In fact, there are no traffic lights on the entire island. Development will bring change, and that’s the basis of the debate. But for right now, Molokai remains a pristine paradise waiting to be discovered.

Lana’i, with a population of 3,000, beckons tourists with three hotels: The Four Season Lana’i at Manele Bay and The Lodge at Koele, both offering every imaginable amenity. You could stay in either and never venture out. The third, Hotel Lana’i, an original clapboard plantation style, is more like a country inn and is very charming in its own way. Once the pineapple capital, tourism is now the major industry on this isle. Lana’i made headlines a few years ago when Bill Gates selected it as the site of his wedding and rented the entire island. Now, I’m told, he and an Arab prince own the two five-star hotels there.

Lana’i has long expanses of undiscovered beach front – great snorkeling, scuba diving, surfing and fishing are all uncrowded and hard to beat. I spent one afternoon exploring Lana’i City, the only community on the island. The core area of this sleepy little town surrounds Dole Park with many shops, restaurants and art galleries. This has become quite a colony for artists and a visitor has the chance to meet some well-known Hawaiian artists like Mike Carroll and Jordanne. The backgrounds of the local people are varied, but they all seemed to move here because the lifestyle and the island captured them. Many simply came to visit and never left.

Suffering from a bit of “sticker shock” at the five-star hotel restaurants, I enjoyed a sandwich and a beer, at Pele’s Other Garden just across from the Park.

Lana’i, like Molokai, operates on “Hawaiian Time,” meaning nothing is rushed and things are left to happen in their own time – definitely a place to unwind.

About an hour’s ferry ride away from Lana’i is the highly developed island of Maui. Coming into the picturesque Lahaina harbor brings you face-to-face with civilization and a much more rushed state of being.

Still, the Maui magic prevailed as I made the 45- minute drive from Lahaina to Wailea in a rental car and lost myself in the fabulous Grand Wailea Hotel for two nights. The grand, marble lobby is full of orchids, water treatments and an “Aloha” welcome. Indeed, it’s grand; my every want was satisfied. The only thing I missed was dining at the famed Humuhumunukunukuapua’s & Botero Bar. But as I slid into my cloud-like bed with very high-thread-count sheets, my disappointment was forgotten.

Having visited Maui many times, I went for some of the less touristy activities this time, like traveling upcountry and enjoying the culinary specialty of tea and scones in Ali’is Kula Lavender Garden. Not only does the lavender bring out a special flavor, it is said to have healing powers, too.

After touring the gardens, I made my way to Bev and Joe Gannon’s General Store in Haleimaile for a chance to again sample Bev’s signature crab sandwich appetizer. Although she’s been asked for the recipe many times, it is still a state secret.

“Maybe, when I die,” she said, “I will put it on my tombstone.”

Wailuku, the county seat, had a Friday night festival while I was there, showing just how much atmosphere this town has. The shopping is interesting, too. One of my favorite finds was the store If The Shoe Fits where the owner adds, “buy it in every color.” This shop offers exciting choices in sandals and accessories. With shoe sizes up to 15, most everyone can find a fit – comfortable and classy. I added to the national debt there.

You can’t visit Maui without spending time in Ka’anapali, so for two nights I lodged at the old Ka’anapali Beach Hotel – not five-star standards, but in my book one of the most endearing hotels in the islands. Built in the 1970s on a great stretch of beach, it remains one of the few hotels privately owned anywhere. The mission of this hotel is to maintain the Hawaiian way of life, nurturing customs, foods, arts – anything that pertains to native. The fact most of the help has been there for years speaks of the high morale, and this rubs off on the guests.

Award-winning chef Tom Marmot offers many tropical choices on his menu – one being the nationally acclaimed Hawaiian Diet (steamed fish, poi and fruit) for guests trying to maintain a healthy lifestyle while on vacation. The Kupanaha Magic Show the hotel features Tuesday through Saturday is outstanding. Dinner is included – you can’t go wrong with this show, great for kids of all ages.

I love it at The Ka’anapali Beach Hotel – live Hawaiian music floats up to your room until about 10 p.m. The gardens surrounding the whale-shaped swimming pool invite you to just sit and soak up that wonderful, fragrant tropical air. It’s a hard place to leave, but when the time comes, each guest is gifted with a kukui nut lei. Each time the guest returns, a white kukui nut is added to the lei, a prized possession of veteran visitors.

A short drive from Ka’anapali is the Maui Ocean Center – the Hawaiian Aquarium on Highway 30 at Ma’alaea Harbor. Don’t overlook it – it’s Hawaii’s top-rated family attraction. You don’t have to be a family to enjoy the journey through a sea of life. More than 60 exhibits teem with coral, fish, turtles, sharks and sea jellies. This is an up-close look at Hawaii’s marine life – particularly wonderful if you haven’t had a chance to snorkel or scuba dive.

A perfect Maui sunset let me know my visit was about to end. With tropical scents, the warm air and a little sand still between my toes, I knew even the most perfect visit must conclude.

The Hawaiian saying “Aloha Nui Hoi” is etched in my memory – “Goodbye and until we meet again.”